During Springtime in ​Seville​, southern ​Spain​, Feria, a week-long celebration takes place. It draws over one million people a year. Called in Spanish “​La Feria de Sevilla” or “​La Feria de Abril”, literally meaning the ​Seville’s Fair​ or ​April Fair. It begun in 1847 as a cattle trading fair. Over the years Seville’s April Fair has become an internationally known celebration of flamenco, ​bullfighting​ and fun. ​Flamenco​ is an integral part of Feria tradition, since Seville is considered epicenter of flamenco culture and music. Many of the flamenco’s most famous artists, songs and composers are from this city.

 

The Andalusian capital’s April festival traditionally begins two weeks after Easter, which means it can fall in May, despite its name. ​The banks of the Guadalquivir river are covered in rows of ​casetas. These are decorated tents, set up by families, clubs, trade associations and political parties. Here crowds gather to socialize in to the night.

 

We were lucky to be able to coordinate our visit to Seville, Spain with the Feria, and got to experience this magical time.

 

Now let enjoy it together!!

 

Location

Real de la Feria, where the Feria takes place, covers 1 square mile and includes the amusement park, `called ´​Calle de Infierno​’ (Hell Street), and the casetas, canvas tent pavilions of varying sizes arranged along 12 streets. Numbering over 1,000, they belong to eminent local families, groups of friends, businesses, clubs, trade associations and political parties. Most of the casetas are private and open only to members and their guests. If you have a Sevillano friend with a caseta, you could be lucky enough to receive a much-coveted invite. Alternatively, there are also seven public casetas – the “caseta municipal” and one for each of six districts of Seville.

Feria De Sevilla Calendar

 

Every year Feria follows a strict traditional calendar. It starts exactly 2 weeks after Easter Sunday.

Monday:​

Members’ meeting at the ​casetas​ and  start inauguration of the Feria de  Sevilla with a dinner called ​el Pescaíto​ (slang for “small fish”). At midnight  the Major turns on the lighting, including the entrance arch known as la  Portada​ and thousands of colorful ​farolillos​ (paper lanterns) as well. ​This  ceremony is called ​el Alumbrado​.

Tuesday:​

Most lunches and dinners are organized this day for friends,  coworkers and businesses. The lights are on until 3:00.

Wednesday:​

It’s the ​main day​ of the Feria de Sevilla. The lights are turned off  at 4:00.

Thursday:

​ Usually the number of people attending increases significantly. You  can also see a lot more horses and ​carriages​. The Feria is lit up until 5:00.

Friday:

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As the weekend arrives, the number of visitors rises and you’ll have the  chance to see a lot of celebrities, ​toreros​, members of the nobility and  politicians. The crowd can reach ​up to a million people​.

Saturday:​

It’s generally the second most popular day. The lighting is on until  6:00.

Sunday:​

The last day of the Feria is mainly devoted to bullfights. ​La  Maestranza​ bullring hosts a ​corrida​ with the Miura stock breeding, famous for  their enormous size. At midnight the Feria de Sevilla holds the ​closing  ceremony with lots of fireworks ​next to the Guadalquivir river.

If you can’t spend full week in Seville during Feria, last 3 days are the best, but  also most expensive.

 

How to fully enjoy Feria:

 

Although there is a specific area designated for the Fair, Feria is truly  celebrated around whole city of Seville. All restaurants, bars and hotel will be  full of the locals dressed up in traditional Flamenco dresses and proper  jackets as the go to and come from ​Real de la Feria​ . Parties will take place  in many venues outside of proper fairgrounds.

At our Hotel, ​Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel, lobby and courtyard were decorated in same fashion as the most exclusive tents at Feria, with Flamenco band, and locals dancing together.

Luxury cars that usually are parked in front of the hotel, were replaced with richly decorated carriages, and chauffeurs replaced with dressed up coachmen.

If you are a equestrian fan, you will be enchanted by most beautiful horses, dressed up as much as their riders. After all Andalusian stallions come from here.

But for the full experience of Feria, let’s head ​across the river​ to Real de la Feria.

Real de la Feria (Fairgrounds):

As I wrote before, the Seville Fair mainly takes place in the fair zone called the ​Real de la Fería. Along the ​Guadalquivir River a temporary “tent city” is born on a rectangular piece of land, that measures one mile by 700 yards. The makeshift “tents” or as they are known in Spanish “​casetas” divide the land into different dance halls and private areas. They are filled each evening with dancing and life, lasting from 9 in the evening until 6 or 7 in the morning. The women are known to dress in their most spectacular gowns, usually brightly colored flamenco dresses inspired by Gypsy fashion.

Manzanilla and ​Rebujito

The most common beverage drunk in during the Seville Fair is Spanish sherry wine, Manzanilla​ , very famous in southern Spain. Often, to battle the heat of April in Seville, the sherry wine is mixed with 7-up or sprite to produce a drink known as “​rebujito“.

Casetas

The ​casetas, or tents, are usually hosted by wealthy families from Seville, nightclubs, trade unions, political parties, or city organizations. Every tent is set up differently with a unique atmosphere and different customs. Access to most of the tents is on an invite only basis but some are open to the public so that the many tourists and locals who do not have connections in high places can still enjoy the April Fair. Visitors roam around the fairgrounds until they find an open tent with a good vibe to have a drink, watch performances and experience the atmosphere.

A well known ​caseta is called “Er 77” and is famous for pouring wine from buckets and having cots available for naps. The “​Los Duendes de Sevilla” (The Goblins of Seville), named after a painting by Alvarez Quintero, is another famous tent in Seville’s Fair. There are many other different themed tents from various groups including left wing politics, anarchists and much more.

Family attractions

In addition the long nights of stomping, clapping and celebrating in the ​casetas, La Feria de Sevilla also offers a wide range of other events during the day. Andalusian horse parades with decorated carriages are daily processions as they make their way through the city and fairground. The equestrian events are usually accompanied by singing groups who serenade crowds with traditional Sevillian ballads and guitar music. Many of the parade participants are members of Seville’s upper class aristocracy and normally dawn exquisite traditional Andalusian outfits with wide-brimmed “​bolero” hats and short-cropped jackets.

Carriages and Horses

The ​carriages​ are the only vehicles allowed inside the fairground (except for  ambulances and police cars). This tradition dates back from the 1850s. People used to arrive and return from the Feria de Sevilla – a livestock fair  then, to deal with breeders that used their own carriage.

Fortunately, this custom remains and you’ll have the chance to see the most  beautiful horse carriages in Spain. There is a tradition of strong rivalry between carriage owners on most elaborate decorations. Don’t miss the carriages themselves as well as the horses’ ornaments. And of course, the costumes of the drivers and passengers. Everyone is dressed with  the traditional gala clothing and it’s absolutely spectacular.

Corrida​ at La Maestranza

 

For locals and many tourists alike, not to be missed during the April Fair are the afternoon bullfights. The Seville Fair draws top-name bullfighters from all around Spain. The bullfights here are considered some of the best of the year. The bullfights take place at 5:30 pm in the ​Plaza de Toros de Maestranza.

​ The bullring in Seville is known as one of the most beautiful in Spain and is commonly known by the locals as “the cathedral”. For visitors to Seville during the Feria, tickets can be purchased directly at the bullring. However, due to the huge draw of the event, tickets can be very expensive.

I’m not a huge fun of bullfights, but if you are interested in going, purchase tickets way in advance.

As you can see, words can hardly explain how beautiful and special ​La Feria de Sevilla is. Tourists pay premium to see flamenco dancers when they come to Spain, and then go to a separate show to see Andalusian Stallions.  During Feria the whole city of Seville becomes one giant live show of quintessential Spanish experience that you get to enjoy, and participate in for free!!

 

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