National Parks: Canyons Trip Review

 

By Vadim Vainer, guest writer.

We called it our canyons trip, some call it the golden circle… no matter what you call it, it’s one of the best ways to spend spring break.

Getting there

We had a large group with ages ranging from 5 to 50; 4 families and some people drove from our hometown in Portland, Oregon and others flew. My little family started out flying into Salt Lake City, Utah (SLC).

There are several options for a starting point on this trip, such as Las Vegas or Phoenix, but when you consider car rentals, Salt Lake had a larger inventory of SUVs and all-wheel-drive vehicles than the other potential start points. Since our flight came in late afternoon on the Friday before spring break, we decided to sleep a night near the airport. This also gave those in our group who were driving time to catch up to us without having to miss that last day of work or school.

Car Rental

We used Priceline to rent a small SUV (RAV4 or similar). It costed $485 for 9 days ($35 a day plus $170 in taxes and fees) through Avis rent a car. When we got to the airport, they were out of smaller SUV’s so we were given a larger Toyota Highlander and I can’t tell you how happy we were to have a larger SUV, more on that later. Also, it can snow in Utah during spring break and that’s another reason flying into SLC is a good idea, they will have resources like chains for your tires so the conditions won’t impede your trip.

Park Pass

Before leaving Portland, we stopped by REI and purchased annual national park passes. They were $79.99 each. Since the average Park costs $25 per vehicle and we planned to visit 4, it was worth the small savings and convenience.

Fueling up

We did some research on where to eat and one of the top recommendations in the Salt Lake area is an Indian restaurant called Bombay House. It was a bit out of the way but we decided to be adventurous and boy were we happy we were. There was a line out the door, which to me says the locals love it and are willing to wait even though there are so many other food options in the area. The inside is non-descript, it actually looks like it might have been an Outback Steakhouse at one time but the food was nothing short of fantastic. The weather was not cold but it was still nice to eat some hearty, fragrant curry that warms the soul. I’ll definitely be going back the next time I am in the area.

It’s also conveniently located on the same plaza as a Walmart so we were able to stock up on some necessities we didn’t fly with such as paper plates, utensils, paper towels. The other family that flew with us even picked up an affordable ($17) medium cooler. We also picked up some fruit, snacks and water for the road. Overall it was a convenient detour that ended up being just what we needed.

Capitol Reef National Park.

By morning we were prepared and ready to go. The two families driving were only a couple hours away from SLC by the time we started moving, they had driven from Portland till midnight and picked back up again at 6am. Our first destination was Capitol Reef National Park.

The drive from SLC to Capitol Reef National Park is an easy one. Most of the road was flat and straight with mountains and hills on either side. Spring was just getting started in Utah so it wasn’t particularly green but it had its own vast beauty, and maybe we were all a bit excited to finally be on our way after months of planning.

We didn’t rush since our plan was to arrive at the park by 1:30pm. After a couple stops, the driving families caught up and our caravan of 3 SUVs and a minivan was complete. As we neared the park you could see snow capped mountains in the distance and closer in the red rocks and spires of the park, the view was spectacular.

There are lots of stops along the way but we stayed focused on getting to the visitor center. There we verified it was all clear, weather wise, to take our planned hike to the Hickman Natural Bridge. The hike was easy to find and not too strenuous, even for the 5 year old in our group. Since this was the first arch we encountered, we were all impressed by its magnitude. I don’t know if we would have been as impressed if we had started with a different park. Also, we made the decision to skip Zion National Park later in our route in order to see this less known gem. This was because it is located more out of the way, while Zion is easily accessible from Las Vegas.

After the hike, we returned toward the park entrance and made some stops to take pictures. There are canyons leading up to the park with deep red, almost violet walls that make for some dramatic pictures, especially with the bright blue skies as the background.

Our next stop for the night was The Boulder Inn in Boulder, UT.

Only about 40 minutes from Capitol Reef National Park, the hotel was charming and original. There were many buildings, no more than 2 stories tall on the sprawling property. The kids immediately went for the wide lawn where they could explore while the adults were able to park right in from of their units and unload. The beds and warm heavy bedding were some of the most comfortable we encountered on the trip, especially since the evening was cold enough to need a coat. We enjoyed the surprisingly gourmet restaurant on the property where everything was grown locally and sourced responsibly. They accommodated our group of 15 people but since everything was so fresh, service did take a while and came out in parts. After dinner we enjoyed a soak in their large in ground hot tub while stargazing the clear starry skies. The robes provided in the room kept us warm on the crisp walk back to the room.

The next morning we were again delighted by the local coffee shop which had fresh baked goods, a tasty and satisfying oatmeal with all the fixings and the last good latte we would encounter for many miles. Boulder is located right on Highway 12, a scenic byway that lives up to the hype. I’m glad we didn’t drive further the evening before since we would have missed the splendor of the drive that morning on our way to Escalante, UT. I could have spent an entire week just exploring the area between Boulder and Escalante.

There were waterfall hikes, dramatic canyons and sprawling vistas that I could have started at for hours. One of my favorite spots was when the highway balances on a knifes edge between two steep cliffs off either side. It seems like your car could slip off either side of the rail-less narrow road. Also, the winding loops through the gulches and cliffs were a challenging drive ending in a long straight stretch with a plateau ahead that we all agreed looked a lot like the “Great Wall of Ice” from the Game of Thrones. Little did we know that the most memorable part of the drive would also lead us to our group’s favorite hike.

Escalante, also known as the Grand Staircase

Our stop that day was Escalante, also known as the Grand Staircase. As usual, we drove to the visitor center in Escalante to make sure the roads and weather were going to be ok for our planned visit. We were again glad we stopped there since the ranger educated us on what to expect.

We wanted to hike to Peek-a-boo and Spooky-gulch slot canyons. While both are listed as “easy to medium” hikes online they turned out to be stipulations to that for the smaller kids who would not be able to make it into Peek-a-boo gulch since it had a 12 foot ledge that needed to be climbed at the entrance. Since we were all casual hikers this didn’t sound like something even the adults were equipped for.

We were also warned about the road. 26 miles (each way) of bumpy gravel road ended in a 1.5 mile off road trail with a ledge that sedans would not be able to cross. This is where we were so grateful that Avis had run out of smaller SUVs, the highlander did great even though there is no way to enjoy a road that bumpy. Our friends in the minivan couldn’t go much faster than 20 miles an hour while we were able to maintain 30-35 miles an hour most of the time. It still took about an hour and there was a lot of grumbling through the walkie-talkies about turning back and giving up, but we are all glad we didn’t. At the turnoff to the off-road portion, the family in the minivan disbursed into the others SUVs for the last 1.5 miles. Talk about an adrenaline rush!

The bumps were so big, holes so deep that sometimes I didn’t think we would make it. The ledge the ranger warned us about could easily have stranded a car lower to the ground but once we made it to the parking lot, another ranger greeted us and gave us tips about the trek ahead.
We would traverse a rock faced incline and then walk along the canyon bottom till we saw the entrances to Spooky & Peek-a-boo Gulches.

This was truly a challenging hike, don’t go without water and designated hiking shoes since the downward traverse to get to the canyon bottom is the hardest part. Beware, the 5 year old did make it but it was about the limit of her endurance so consider that when planning this hike.

There is beauty all around on this hike, from the top down view into the main canyon to the walk along the sandy river bed surrounded by cliffs. But when you step into the slot canyon, often not wide enough to walk unless you turn sideways, suck in your stomach, it’s breathtaking! It was spooky, and spectacular and more incredible than words can describe.

By the way, forget bringing your backpack, it won’t fit in there with you so we left it at the mouth of the slot canyon.

We were the only people there and so could explore to our hearts content. Well worth the effort and time to make this part of your trip since none of us will ever forget it.

Lodging in Bryce Canyon City

After escaping the bumps and challenges of the road out of Escalante, we drove back on highway 12 to Bryce Canyon City were we stayed at the Best Western Ruby’s Inn. All of us were starved after the challenging day so we were especially grateful they had an extensive buffet where we could all sit together and not wait long for service. This was the best place we encountered to buy souvenirs for the trip, we even took the time, early the next morning to take a group photo all dressed in western costumes.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park was one of the busiest parks we would visit. There was about a half hour long line to get into the park and we spent another 40 minutes looking for parking for all 4 of our vehicles.

In late March it was also the coldest spot we would visit, where I broke out the winter coat and hat to stave off the winter wind blowing through the trees. There were patches of snow in the shady spots around the park and it added to the view of the pink, orange, yellow and red stone spikes and spires.

We chose to do the popular hike down the canyon, through the base and back up the other side, don’t let the pamphlets fool you, the hike back up is extremely challenging and by the time we made it, we had no energy left to explore the rest of the park. With only one day and still a drive to our next stop, we decided to get going a little early and maybe find a good spot for a nice meal.

Page, Arizona

Unfortunately, between Bryce Canyon and Kanab, UT, there really wasn’t anywhere to stop. We passed the turn off to Zion National Park, which as I mentioned, we decided to skip and we drove through some more picturesque cliffs, mountains and even through an arch spanning over the rest of highway 12.

We stopped for some dinner and a rest in Kanab which has a wide variety of options and continued to Page, AZ, crossing over the border between the two states is not only a state line but has different time zones so we were in effect time traveling, which the kids loved and insisted we take a picture to commemorate. It was still light out when we crossed the Glenn Canyon damn and saw the sunset reflecting off of Lake Powell. We rented a house to fit all 15 of us in Page, AZ and we would stay there for 3 nights.

Antelope canyon

About 5 months before the trip we had booked tours to see Antelope canyon. A famous slot canyon on the Navajo lands located just outside of Page, AZ. Most of us took the lower canyon tour and one of us signed up for a photography tour which would give a little more opportunity to take pictures of the famously original canyon without the crowds in the way. The tours all start in Page and you get shuttled into the canyon by trucks open to the air. It was in the mid 60’s when we started out and mid 70’s by the time we had finished the tour.

The canyon isn’t anywhere near as narrow as those we visited in Escalante but the morning diffused light coming through the top of the canyon made the walls of the canyon a rainbow of colors like pink, purple, red, orange just to name a few.

While the tour was very touristy and crowded it was still worth the time to check out this natural marvel. Since the tour only took an hour and a half, we had the rest of the day free to check out a local BBQ spot and sunbathe for some much needed relaxation in the middle of our active trip.

We had wanted to experience the famous rock formation called “The Wave” in Coyote Buttes North area of the Paria Canyon/ Vermillion Cliffs but the site is so delicate they only allow a handful of people a permit per day and the permits can only be obtained by lottery. We put in 15 bids over 3 days but none of us got a permit amidst the 300+ other applicants.

Lake Powell

The next day we booked a boat tour on Lake Powell. What we really wanted was to take the tour which would have included a stop at Rainbow Bridge, one of the worlds longest natural bridges but the only company operating those tours (which need a permit from the Navajo nation) was Lake Powell Resorts.

I can honestly say they were the worst customer service out of any company we encountered on the whole trip. Since there were 15 of us, we wanted a private tour, which their website says they offer, after 9 emails and countless attempts at communicating with them by phone we gave up and took the generic lake tour. It was nice but some of the kids fell asleep and the day might have been better spend renting some kayaks, stand-up-paddle-boards or a small fishing boat. Having seen the lake options we might have even better rented a houseboat than a house to get the most out of our days in northern Arizona and Lake Powell itself.

Horseshoe Bend

Later in the evening, after the boat trip, we drove about 15 minutes from Page to a spot called Horseshoe Bend. It’s a short 5 minute walk from the parking lot to the spectacular view of a U-shaped bend in the Colorado river. It may not sound like much and no picture can actually do the massive view justice as you sit along the edge of the Glen canyon, 1000 feet above the river.

We settled in for a longer visit and didn’t end up using our chairs because the view was just so much better and more stable peering over the edge from the ground. We had a goal in mind, to catch pictures of the renowned sunset. We got there around 5:30pm but the firefly sky didn’t really appear until after 7. The wind whipped up the sand so it was in our ears, hair, pockets and everywhere imaginable. There were literally busses full of tourists coming and going but no matter, there are plenty of spots to get a front row view. Once the sun set though, it got dark in what seemed like seconds. We wished we had thought to bring flashlights and a blanket instead of chairs. Our pictures are memorable though and well worth it.

Monument Valley

Next, we were off to Moab, UT via Monument Valley, spanning the boarder between Utah and Arizona. We thought this was a National Park but upon presenting our National Park pass we learned it’s a National Park for the Navajo nation and the US pass didn’t apply. Still totally worth the entrance fee of $20 per vehicle.

The view was tremendous and I get why Forrest Gump stopped there. I do think we took too much time and wore ourselves out for the long trip remaining to get to Moab. I would suggest only doing the closest part of the loop and returning, you still see the main attractions this way and save some time to take pictures in other spots along the road, such as Mexican Hat.

Moab, UT

Moab is another spot that could warrant a vacation of its own. The town is alive with restaurants, tour companies and people pumped up on adrenaline. There are lots of places to rent a Jeep or an off-road vehicle to take in the sites. There is also rafting, kayaking, hiking, biking and rock climbing to name a few. Since it’s such a hot spot, the lodging was the most expensive we encountered. It was hard to find anything under $200 a night and we ended up paying well over $300 a night for a Holiday Inn just because there was a Jeep exhibition there and we were there on a weekend.

Arches National Park

Our first stop in Moab was Arches National Park. Just 15 minutes from town, which is probably why it took our group over an hour to get into the busy park entrance.

The entrance is located in the valley, well below the rest of the park. When you climb the winding drive, the sites are strikingly impressive. It was hard to decide where to stop, or to stop every 100 yards. This park didn’t feel as crowded as Bryce Canyon did but at Delicate Arch, the famous icon from the Utah license plate, we did have to wait in line to take a picture.

The hike wasn’t especially strenuous but there is absolutely no shade on the mile and a half trek. With the clear sunny day, the rock below our feet made the 80 degree day feel like 90. Take water and a snack because it’s fun to hang out on the punch bowl by the famous arch.

We also took the short easy trip to Landscape arch, one of the largest on earth. It was very long and tall but at such a distance away, it was hard to be awed after being right under Delicate arch or even after passing under Hickman Bridge at Capital Reef National Park.

Once done hiking for the day, there are lots of après options from breweries to restaurants to cafes in the open air. Almost all hotels in the city have a pool so it’s nice to take a dip after all the heat of the day.

Canyonlands National Park

The last National Park we visited was Canyonlands National Park. It’s about 30 minutes outside of Moab and happens to be the largest national park in Utah.

After such an intensive, active trip, the kids were a little worn out looking at “rocks” and honestly the adults were a little tired too. Even still, the deep dark purple-red canyons and cliffs of this park were striking. We took one shorter hike to Mesa Arch and just stared at the deep ravine on the other side of the gravity defying arch. Knowing how tired we were, if I had it to do over again, I would have done a short day at Canyonlands and then rested before doing the longer day at Arches. We drove back to SLC from Moab and even those that drove went back that route.

 

 

This trip brought us back to nature and with poor cell reception (thankfully) it brought the friends and families closer as well. A must see for anyone and like no other trip you’ll take. It’s worthy of its name, the golden circle.

About Guest Writer:

Vadim Vainer is the owner of Axium Dental Arts LLC, a digital dental information and photography company in Tualatin, OR. He completed his associates degree in computer engineering at the technical college of Beer-Sheva, Israel and later expanded his education at the University of Colorado in Boulder by studying biology and computer technology; which he later applied at the dental technology program at Portland Community College. Soon after completing his education, he opened Dentech Pro, a dental laboratory in Clackamas, OR where he worked in a fast-paced environment assuring client satisfaction with general dental restorations. In 2014, with encouragement from family and friends, he sold Dentech and started Axium Dental Arts where he could focus on more complex cosmetic and digitally based restorations. In his free time, Vadim loves to go camping and hiking with his wife Sarah and Chocolate Labrador Lyla. Often he plays the guitar to relax after a long day at work and is passionate about photography and often teaches classes about portrait photography. Grateful for an amazing group of followers on Instagram and Facebook, Vadim likes to participate in education and training for photography editing and retouching digitally.

For more of Vadim’s amazing photography visit his Instagram page.